Indulge in the epitome of timeless elegance with Berluti Edition Rapiécé-Reprisé collection, a masterful homage to centuries of masculine refinement. This exquisite capsule pays tribute to the Maison’s illustrious archives while capturing the essence of time passing through impeccably crafted footwear. Each piece is designed to become an extension of the man who wears it, a testament to Berluti’s unwavering commitment to artistry and luxury, a legacy that began in Paris in 1895.
Elegance Through the Ages
The beauty of a man’s wardrobe lies in how it subtly reveals the passage of time – the way a jacket or a pair of shoes grow into their own shape over the years. A man feels good in familiar, well-worn apparel that moulds itself naturally to his irregular shoulder blade or the hardness of his heel. There’s also an alluring quality to a leather patina, or to the tiny snags in a cloth that only the wearer notices, with his intimate knowledge of a treasured garment. During the Early Modern period, aristocrats took pride in the visible signs of repair on their doublets. By the early 1800s, this finely executed stitching – reminiscent of the delicate Japanese art of kintsugi – had become a mark of affiliation among fashionable dandies in Paris and London. Patches and darns allowed a man to stand out for his consummate mastery of a time-honoured custom.
Reviving a Storied Tradition
Around two hundred years later, in 2005, Olga Berluti revived this tradition with the creation of Rapiécé-Reprisé. Describing these shoes, she said: “Very comfortable models, marked by the passage of time, they pay homage to those clothes we’ve had all our lives that we can’t bring ourselves to throw away.” She viewed these shoes as a tribute to the aristocratic men of the Renaissance and Louis XIV’s reign, who bore the scars of repair on their doublets with pride. Berluti’s iconic female Master Shoemaker could now share the self-indulgent eccentricities of some of her most distinguished clients with a wider audience. Andy Warhol, for instance, helped usher in Rapiécé-Reprisé by asking Olga to mend the right shoe of one of his pairs of loafers. The American artist’s exact words were: “I’d like the right foot of my loafer patched. It has to show! It must be Andy Warhol!”
Redefining Classic Moccasins
Rapiécé-Reprisé offers a new take on five emblematic Berluti models, each weaving its own story about the shoes and clothes that men wear. These Équilibre slippers, oxfords, loafers, derbies, monk straps, and ankle boots come in versions with or without patching, allowing for mix’n’match.
The most individualized of all are the Équilibre slippers. Rapiécé-Reprisé reissues its trio, introducing an asymmetry: two different versions for the right foot and one for the left. Each shoe bears distinctive, meticulously crafted patching, infusing an understated note of urbane sophistication. The Rapiécé-Reprisé piece that curves across the shoe’s upper is inset using a turn-and-stitch construction. This process involves folding the leather by hand, perforating it with a specialist tool, and sewing the leathers together with waxed cotton thread in a process that takes two hours and is done entirely by hand.
All these shoes are designed to create the impression of having been worn for ages. They have a sense of weightlessness, thanks to the depth and suppleness of Berluti’s hallmark Venezia leather. A slimline design and straight-edged outsoles result in a highly contemporary profile, while still channeling the codes of Rapiécé-Reprisé. All the models in the capsule are made with an elegant Blake construction, which conceals the stitching while giving the shoe unbeatable flexibility.
A Palette of Evocative Patinas
The collection also introduces a range of evocative patinas. Acid Green, a fusion of soft yellow and deep green, expresses the dynamism and vibrancy of youth. Luna Piena blends dark blues with velvety black, conjuring up fleeting summer nights and the emotions of reading under the stars. Ice Gold has the warm gleam of noble gold, reminiscent of the end of summer and autumn’s golden shimmer. Saint Émilion, a deep burgundy shade, honors the exceptional wines of Bordeaux, while Vigogna, with warm browns enriched with magenta and violet, evokes the plush wool of the vicuna from the Andes.
Every model is hot-stamped with the signature “Berluti Rapiécé-Reprisé depuis 2005” in tribute to Berluti’s history and the Maison’s leading light, Olga Berluti. This, too, is what Rapiécé-Reprisé brings to life: time – in other words, luxury – along with elegance.
Berluti Edition Rapiécé-Reprisé pieces will be available in Berluti stores from September 2024.